Computer Fans & Cooling

Fresh Interest In Hks Air Filter

(BPU(TM) is typically a trademark of SupraStore.com)

Basic Performance Upgrades. These modifications are: A full length three inch down-pipe (with or with-out high flow cats), 3" (75mm) or larger cat-back exhaust system, raised boost (18psi), along with the necessary enhance cut eliminator (GReddy BCC) required to accomplish that enhance without having activating the factory fuel cut-off at 14-15psi. These are the modifications which have confirmed to present the finest HP-to-$$$ ratio.

One "+" refers to Adj. Cam Gears and under-drive pulleys, the second "+" refers to a Fuel controller, ECU upgrade, etc. For instance, a Supra using the BPU(TM) modifications, plus a front-mount intercooler, would be known as BPU(TM)+. If you added cam gears to that, it would be BPU(TM)++, and so on. The "BPU(TM)" term is put to use until you may have an upgraded turbo(s). Then it is referred to as APU, advanced performance upgrades.

What are the first engine modifications I need to perform?

I advise beginning with raising the enhance of the stock turbos to roughly 18psi. This will demand a excellent increase gauge as properly as a enhance cut eliminator (GReddy BCC). After those modifications are completed, it will be a logical next step to install the Down Pipe and Cat-Back Exhaust at the very same time. You will now be at full BPU(TM).

I will cover just some of them here. The ones I will cover fall into 3 categories, boost control, EGR disabling, and TTC or True Twin Conversion.

Three of the boost control mods are: Bleeder-T Mod, Clamp Mod, along with the VSV Bypass Mod. Each of these modifications raise boost levels without the use of a enhance controller. But you must maintain a close eye on your increase gauge, and ensure that they aren't permitting the turbos to enhance too high (18psi is genuinely a safe level).

The next mods, are the accurate twin conversion mods (or TTC). This modification disables the Sequential twin turbo operation, and causes the turbos to run continually in parallel (both on at the identical time). However, this does noticeably lower low-end power, and increases exhaust noise levels, and for that reason may not be desirable on the street.

The final mod I will discuss will be the EGR mod. This disables the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system, which is meant for emissions, and therefore, this modification is for off-road use only. This mod is supposed to prevent the super heating of the amount 5 and 6 cylinders, which may possibly trigger burnt valves.

How much power will my car make at BPU(TM)?

Most BPU(TM)-only Supra Twin Turbos, dyno in between 370 and 410 horsepower at the rear wheels. On the street, energy will probably be reduced, particularly in poor weather, but at the very least 90 percent of the power need to be retained.

What kind of 1/4 mile ETs and trap speeds ought to I run at BPU(TM)-only?

As well as track conditions, elevation above sea level, ambient temperatures, humidity, and pre-race preparation. But most fall between 12.3 to 12.9 ets with 112 to 119mph trap speeds on street tires.

Speeds within the mid-high 180mph range will need to be achievable. Once the speed-limiter is disabled, by pulling the "TRAC" fuse of course.

Will the life of my Engine and Drivetrain be adversely affected using the BPU(TM) mods?

If the automobile is maintained properly, and also the auto is treated with some respect for the components, you ought to sustain very much of the energy train's life. Which taking into consideration the fact that the Supra is by far 1 of probably the most dependable and durable sports cars, it will last longer than most properly maintained STOCK sports cars. It will more than likely not last considerably longer than 8-10k miles as soon as at BPU(TM). If your stock clutch has high mileage on it, or is already starting to slip, you may need to have to strategy on a brand new high-performance clutch. Also the stock turbos might be topic to a somewhat shortened life span (how brief will depend on how you drive and maintain the car, as well as how much increase you may run)

What's the reliability of a 600hp Supra Turbo?

Just how extended depends on maintenance, and how tough you drive it, and how often. But generally Supras can go for years at this energy level. The transmission reliability will depend on whether or not it's an Automatic or Manual.

The only real reliability concerns at these low energy levels would surround the actual modifications you perform. Basically a set-up that's either VERY properly concieved, or utilizes OE components as very much as possible, devoid of over burdening them, would posses *near* stock reliability.

What are the energy limits of the a variety of factory components (Differential, Transmission, Motor, etc.)?

There have seriously not been sufficient failures to seriously pin point a limit for the many power-train components. The motor could fail at factory power levels if it was running dangerously lean. But when properly tuned, the motors internals (Pistons, Rods, Crank, Head Gasket etc) are trustworthy to 700rwhp. But of course at these power levels, if the engine is not set-up and tuned properly, it is literally a bomb waiting to go off, having said that this will be just as true having a built motor. Some owners have pushed their stock internals to the limit and have nicely exceeded 800rwhp, and also approached 900rwhp. I still do not understand how such an more than built motor produced it past the bean counters at Toyota Corporate.

Even driven hard, the Getrag need to hold up reasonably nicely with 700RWHP. If you treat it with some respect, it should be in a position to deal with around 800RWHP or more, while good care and respect will want to be practiced at those levels.

So I do not have much info on their failure limits. On street tires, it will be practically impossible to break any of these components at ANY energy level. The tires would spin prior to they would put the driveline beneath that type of strain. The tires act sort of like a circuit breaker. If you run drag slicks, this does not hold accurate of course, but they have confirmed themselves to be 10 and also 9 second capable.

Will drivability, interior noise levels, and low-end power be adversely affected with the BPU(TM) mods?

Some will make it far louder; some will basically make it quieter. But most are just a bit bit louder than stock. But the added dBs are also combined with a MUCH sweeter exhaust note, so it is absolutely worth it. So low-end energy and response is very much improved more than stock.

Will emissions be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?

If you run devoid of catalytic converters, you happen to be undertaking so at your own risk, and you wouldn't pass visual or emissions testing.

Mileage will greatly decrease during however, should you drive "vigorously", more power equals far more burned fuel I am afraid.

This is often a bit of a yes and no answer. However, it is going to also draw in far more heated engine compartment air, which can hurt performance. My advice would be to either modify the stock filter box, or install a cool air induction box, like the Max Air. An added bonus of the open element filters, is that they let you to quickly hear the primary turbo and by-pass valve.

What concerning the stock intercooler?

The stock intercooler does a decent job up till about 17psi on the stock turbos, following that you simply would in all probability notice a substantial gain, especially in warmer temperatures, having a nice front mount intercooler. However, maintain in mind it is going to block some of the airflow to the radiator, also as decreasing response slightly.

Should I replace the factory rubber Intercooler hoses with aftermarket metal hoses?

It wouldn't hurt. At probably the most you could slightly improve throttle response, but a minimum of it is going to appear nicer.

What concerning the fuel system, are the stock injectors and fuel pump substantial sufficient for BPU(TM)?

Yes, the stock fuel system is extremely secure and trustworthy to 450RWHP, even though I would propose a fuel pulsation damper bypass. Anything over that, and I would highly recommend having the vehicle dyno'd, and using a wide-band O2 sensor (not a inexpensive A/F gauge connected to the stock O2) to check the fuel ratio at your high increase setting. 11.5:1 will be a secure fuel ratio.

What are the stock injectors rated at?

Everyone remembers the popular 10-second orange MKIV generation Supra. This will be the point where Supra owners started to feel far more about converting their slow non-turbo 2JZ-GE engines into a 400-700 horsepower 2JZ-GE-T beasts.

Would the Supra benefit from a fuel controller?

BPU(TM)'d Supras run just a little on the wealthy side as far as fuel ratios go. This hurts power. What it does do is provide a safety margin that makes engine harm by way of detonation unlikely. The Fields SFC is great too.

What must I use to raise my enhance level, an Electronic Boost Controller, or a Manual BC?

Using an EBC could be the safest technique to raise boost, it's going to avoid spiking and over-boosting. But it definitely comes down to your budget. If you can afford an EBC, get one. If you can't, go having a MBC. And whatever you might be making use of to control boost, bear in mind to not get carried away, I do not suggest going routinely more than 18psi.

What could be the most effective Electronic Boost Controller?

Although the A'PEXi AVC-R is really a nice unit, it gives significantly far more control more than boost than other EBCs, however it is also far more complicated to install, and tune. Most of the massive producers make decent units. Just avoid fuzzy-logic equipped models in case you still have the sequential stock turbos, they will turn out to be "confused" by the unnatural behavior of the sequential system.

The Primary Turbo could be the only 1 with a wastegate. When in full twin turbo mode, the enhance of both Turbos is regulated by the primary turbo's wastegate. So, only connect it to the Primary's.

Some folks say I need to replace my ECU with a reprogrammed one, rather than just utilizing a increase controller. Do I?

Reprogrammed ECUs for the Supra TT are VERY $$$. They are inside the $1200 range. And they've not been confirmed to present a substantial enhance in performance or safety on BPU(TM) level cars. Their merit shows itself on cars with upgraded Turbo(s). Just be certain you acquire your ECU, or have it reprogrammed by a reputable shop that knows what they are doing. And have it tailored to your distinct car (Driving habits, and Mods). And I would also recommend taking a appear at the AEM Programmable system.

The common consensus is 17-18psi.

The RMM (or Rod Millen Motorsports) Cat-less Downpipe is the most commonly used. However lots of other brands exist.

Will a high-flow cat hurt performance?

It will have some effect on power output, but not a lot. Its exact effect on HP will not be clear, but it possibly costs a number of hp at the most, possibly 5-15hp at BPU(TM) energy levels.

The Downpipe is also exactly where the two catalytic converters are located, as well as the O2 sensor (or sensors in OBD-II cars).

Can I still install a Down-Pipe?

Yes. But unless the DP has a Catalyst along with a second location for an O2 sensor, you'll trip your check engine light, unless you get 1 of those O2 "black boxes".

Which Exhausts are the loudest?

The Tanabe Racing Medallion, and HKS Hiper Titanium seem to be the two loudest systems.

Which Exhausts are the quietest?

The automobile is gorgeous, sexy lines, original interior - terrific feeling to drive the car. The only issue that was incorrect was the lack of power. So I decided to tune it. I was completely new to turbo chargers, standalone engine management, intercoolers and BOV-s. I had no concept just how much it could expense and that it was not the finest option to tune a car with 184k miles on the odometer.

The Tanabe Hyper Medallion, the discontinued Tanabe G-Power Medallion as well as the GReddy (SP) Street Performance appear to be the quietest. At anything less than full throttle, they're no louder than stock.

What are some recommended exhaust systems?

It depends upon your personal preferences.

-Random Technologies (75mm, full stainless steel)

Subtle Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

Subtle Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-ATR (75mm, full stainless steel)

Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:

-GReddy Power Extreme (80-94mm)

-HKS Super Dragger (95mm)

You might desire to know additional research here about K&n 57 3023 1 and Hks Air Filter.

Official: Nissan rolls out new Track Pack for GT-R (Autoblog)

Filed under: Coupe, Performance, Nissan, UK

The Nissan GT-R has become something of a cult favorite for a number of types
of enthusiasts: supercar slayers, import tuners, and especially track-day
junkies. Particularly in the UK, where congestion (and a proliferation of
speed cameras) prevents stretching out your car's legs, where there are
legendary racing circuits abound and where, subsequently, Nissan has now
rolled out a new Track Pack for the recently updated GT-R.

The Track Pack doesn't touch the engine, so the same 542-horsepower twin-turbo
V6 applies. What it does provide is better cooling for the brakes with extra
ducting front and rear, lighter six-spoke Rays alloys, a stiffer suspension
(whose dampers can, of course, still be softened for road use), and an
interior stripped of its rear seats and bolstered in the front for harder
cornering.

Nissan UK is pricing the Track Pack at £10,000 ($15,000) on top of the £74,450
($116,000) purchase price of a stock GT-R, and fortunately, the kit's addition
doesn't preclude it from being driven on public roads. Although the package is
currently only available overseas, we're hopeful that when the revised
Godzilla makes its way to these shores, we'll have a ...

Autoblog

Mom's Reaction to 1250WHP Twin Turbo Gallardo